Freeride - Wanna get sideways? If "drifting, heel side standies, pendulums, and Coleman" are part of your vocabulary you're in the right place. For freeride wheels; a smaller contact patch, a stone ground finish, and rounded lip all help them slide easily, right out of the box.
A word to the wise: if you are just getting into freeride try out a smaller size wheel (think 60mm-65mm) with a harder durometer (82a or harder) because it will be easier to break away into a slide, making it easier to practice. Practice slides with friends and try different setups. Will you flat spot your first set of freeride wheels before coring them? Yes. Will they wear unevenly and leave you with a couple bruises? Absolutely. But, it gives you a whole new look at the hills, a whole new freedom. The great Cliff Coleman (father of downhill slide) says, “If you can crouch down and ride a skateboard, then you can learn this slide" as he talks about the classic Coleman slide.
As you gain experience, and speed, you'll find bigger wheels can be better because they will last longer and will be faster on the hill. Different durometers, center-set vs side-set or offset cores, and different urethane formulas will help in different weather/road conditions so make sure you experiment to find your favorites.
Freeride takes you to a new level of skating. Simply put, it's groundbreaking.
Carving/Cruising - For cruising park trails, taking big turns through your neighborhood, and general transportation riding; carving/cruising wheels meet the needs of many different skate disciplines. They fall in the middle of the size scale so you can ride down medium grade hills with some of the stability bigger wheels offer, but have the faster and larger range of motion of smaller wheels. Often, this category is great for beginners because the wheels tend to be softer, making them grippier. If you are looking to try slides look for wheels with a stone ground finish and/or a rounded lip. If your daily shredding includes a hill or two, try some bigger cruiser wheels with a square lip. No matter what you choose, carving/cruising wheels are going to be fun!
Sideset - Sideset wheels have cores that are directly aligned with the inner lip of the wheel. This core placement style has the least amount of grip because it allows little to no inner lip. Sideset wheels allow smooth slides to be easily initiated with little required force. However, their lack of grip also makes them harder to control while sliding.
A sideset core also causes the inner lip to wear much faster than the outer lip, which can result in severe coning. Despite their drawbacks, sideset wheels are still very popular for freeride, and a great choice for beginners who are learning to break traction on their longboards.
Square Lip - Square lips provide the most grip and allow you to carve deeper and corner tighter without worrying about losing traction. Square lip wheels are generally preferred for downhill riding.
Smooth - Smooth wheels have a shiny coating on their surface that is commonly referred to as its skin or mold release. Smooth wheels are generally preferred for their grip and traction.
78a - Soft and gooey, this is the most common durometer we see in the longboard/cruiser wheel world. These wheels have great grip for cornering and easily rolls over cracks, small rocks, and rough surfaces without tripping you up. When sliding, 78a wheels have a tendency to smear across the surface of the road, offer great control, slow you down rapidly, wear quickly, and leave thane lines. Ideal for cruising, carving, freeride, and downhill.
Urethane skate wheels generally range from 75a-101a, the numbers increase with the hardness of the wheel.
|Suggested Riser Size (in):||1/4 - 1/2|